Luton is a city of contrasts. You might choose to dine like a lord or lady at the fabled banquetting rooms, forty stories above ground, of the TravelLodge Hotel. Its penthouse dining area gives a panoramic view of the scenic Lea Valley and, moreover, it has its own heliport conveniently adjacent.
This is a ‘must’ in your visit. Be sure to budget for it!
For everyday
dining, you might prefer the quaint village fare in the tavernas of King Street and the many labryinthine alleys around it. The smells of every nation mingle there, not least those of curry, sotweed, peyote and the local liquor called Stum. It is made from fermented plums and drunk at every meal, being safer than the water.
You might be persuaded that the rushes on the tavern floors have not been changed since Chaucer’s time! And you would not be far wrong.
Never enquire for ‘recommended restaurants’ in Luton. They do not exist. All public eating places are known as ‘ordinaries’. Typical snacks might include Fat Hen Fritters, Tansy Tarts, and Pussy Cakes.
The luncheon menu is sure to feature Luton’s specialities: a starter of Corncrake Tongues in Hippocras followed by Soused Lea River Crayfish in Lavender or a Cassoulet of Llama Neck from the great llama reservation at Bramingham Wood*.
To finish, there will always be a Bedfordshire Clanger, a sweet-savoury pasty hav
ing meat at one end and plum jam at the other. (Plums are much grown in the area to make dye to supply Luton’s thriving straw hat industry.) The Clanger has the advantage that it may be taken away and consumed in the evening if the table d’hote of one’s inn proves less than inviting.
Important note: as I may have said elsewhere, all ordinaries, taverns and places of public entertainment in Luton are obliged by law to close at curfew. This is normally at dusk except upon the frequent occasions when the magistrates impose a special curfew to suppress street riots.
Such a curfew
may occur at any time during the day. Bailiffs and wardens will appear in the streets very suddenly, wearing red jesters’ caps and waving inflated pigs’ bladders on sticks. Strangers not carrying sufficient identity, or who cannot recite Psalm 51, may be arrested. However, a fine of two crowns or one angel usually secures one’s release upon the moment.
*I have listed separately on this site three Luton recipes for those who would like to try these delicacies at home. See Luton Recipes. If you cannot get llama, kangaroo, ostrich or giraffe neck, armadillo tail may be substituted. Or, at a pinch, stewing steak. All these exotic meats are available by mail order world wide - shipped in long-life foil cryovac pouches - from Whipsnade Zoo: 01582 872 171. Ask for its Afro-Asian HotPot Selection.
This is a ‘must’ in your visit. Be sure to budget for it!
For everyday
dining, you might prefer the quaint village fare in the tavernas of King Street and the many labryinthine alleys around it. The smells of every nation mingle there, not least those of curry, sotweed, peyote and the local liquor called Stum. It is made from fermented plums and drunk at every meal, being safer than the water.You might be persuaded that the rushes on the tavern floors have not been changed since Chaucer’s time! And you would not be far wrong.
Never enquire for ‘recommended restaurants’ in Luton. They do not exist. All public eating places are known as ‘ordinaries’. Typical snacks might include Fat Hen Fritters, Tansy Tarts, and Pussy Cakes.
The luncheon menu is sure to feature Luton’s specialities: a starter of Corncrake Tongues in Hippocras followed by Soused Lea River Crayfish in Lavender or a Cassoulet of Llama Neck from the great llama reservation at Bramingham Wood*.
To finish, there will always be a Bedfordshire Clanger, a sweet-savoury pasty hav
ing meat at one end and plum jam at the other. (Plums are much grown in the area to make dye to supply Luton’s thriving straw hat industry.) The Clanger has the advantage that it may be taken away and consumed in the evening if the table d’hote of one’s inn proves less than inviting.Important note: as I may have said elsewhere, all ordinaries, taverns and places of public entertainment in Luton are obliged by law to close at curfew. This is normally at dusk except upon the frequent occasions when the magistrates impose a special curfew to suppress street riots.
Such a curfew
may occur at any time during the day. Bailiffs and wardens will appear in the streets very suddenly, wearing red jesters’ caps and waving inflated pigs’ bladders on sticks. Strangers not carrying sufficient identity, or who cannot recite Psalm 51, may be arrested. However, a fine of two crowns or one angel usually secures one’s release upon the moment.*I have listed separately on this site three Luton recipes for those who would like to try these delicacies at home. See Luton Recipes. If you cannot get llama, kangaroo, ostrich or giraffe neck, armadillo tail may be substituted. Or, at a pinch, stewing steak. All these exotic meats are available by mail order world wide - shipped in long-life foil cryovac pouches - from Whipsnade Zoo: 01582 872 171. Ask for its Afro-Asian HotPot Selection.
