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Since time immemorial, the fertile River Lea wound its way through the centre of what is now modern Luton (‘Lea-town’). The old river bed accounts for the remarkable width of what is now George Street.
However, in the 18th century, the townspeople complained bitterly of the ‘stink’ of the river. Apparently, it was a favourite dumping ground for dead dogs and other carrion, and more than one baby had been carried off by the red kites that scavenged there.
Capability Brown was hired in 1778 to redirect the river underground, shortly after he had finished supervising the construction of the amazing Walled Garden at Luton Hoo. The tunnel was completed in 1819, financed by the 2nd Marquess of Bute, a great developer of docks and waterways. (His name is still gratefully remembered in Luton’s Bute Street.)
So, for nearly two centuries, the ‘lost’ Lea lapsed into myth and memory.
Then, thanks to the enterprise of the City Fathers, the subterranean passage of the river was opened in 1998 and the tunnel made fully navigable as a magical lagoon!
Many thanks must be given to volunteers from LADFAS (Luton Area Decorative & Fine Arts Society) who tirelessly excavated centuries of broken go carts, clay pipe stems and pewter ale pots from the thick silt. Some are now displayed in a small museum at the Leagrave entrance to the tunnel.
The open gondola
s sail at hourly intervals until 5pm in summer and 3pm in winter, so that all voyagers may be returned in good time before curfew. It is better, however, to take one of the larger ‘tilt’ boats. They have awnings to protect one from the incessant ceiling drips and not least from the street urchins who pee down the ventilation shafts.
By arrangement, an excellent repast of Luton delicacies will be served as the journey proceeds.
Flaming torches light the tunnel adequately from end to end. Nor need there be a shortage of chilled ale! Jovial tapsters in little wherries can be relied upon to skim about your boat like water flies.
The stout of heart might also wish to brave the Ghost Ship. It ventures into many spooky side tunnels. Gibbering skeletons and ghastly witches will leap out upon your boat, to everyone’s terrified delight! Also, the luminous bones of authentic saints may be seen tastefully arranged in alcoves. The decaying bones glow naturally with organic phosphorous.
It is simply not true, of course, that blind shrimp, water snakes and alligators abound in the Lost Lea - to cite just some of the foolish legends. People can be very gullible. However, there is a thriving family of coypu at the eastern end, as I saw with my own eyes, and the albino beaver introduced last year as a tourist attraction should be well established by the time of your visit.
However, in the 18th century, the townspeople complained bitterly of the ‘stink’ of the river. Apparently, it was a favourite dumping ground for dead dogs and other carrion, and more than one baby had been carried off by the red kites that scavenged there.
Capability Brown was hired in 1778 to redirect the river underground, shortly after he had finished supervising the construction of the amazing Walled Garden at Luton Hoo. The tunnel was completed in 1819, financed by the 2nd Marquess of Bute, a great developer of docks and waterways. (His name is still gratefully remembered in Luton’s Bute Street.)
So, for nearly two centuries, the ‘lost’ Lea lapsed into myth and memory.
Then, thanks to the enterprise of the City Fathers, the subterranean passage of the river was opened in 1998 and the tunnel made fully navigable as a magical lagoon!
Many thanks must be given to volunteers from LADFAS (Luton Area Decorative & Fine Arts Society) who tirelessly excavated centuries of broken go carts, clay pipe stems and pewter ale pots from the thick silt. Some are now displayed in a small museum at the Leagrave entrance to the tunnel.
The open gondola
s sail at hourly intervals until 5pm in summer and 3pm in winter, so that all voyagers may be returned in good time before curfew. It is better, however, to take one of the larger ‘tilt’ boats. They have awnings to protect one from the incessant ceiling drips and not least from the street urchins who pee down the ventilation shafts.By arrangement, an excellent repast of Luton delicacies will be served as the journey proceeds.
Flaming torches light the tunnel adequately from end to end. Nor need there be a shortage of chilled ale! Jovial tapsters in little wherries can be relied upon to skim about your boat like water flies.
The stout of heart might also wish to brave the Ghost Ship. It ventures into many spooky side tunnels. Gibbering skeletons and ghastly witches will leap out upon your boat, to everyone’s terrified delight! Also, the luminous bones of authentic saints may be seen tastefully arranged in alcoves. The decaying bones glow naturally with organic phosphorous.
It is simply not true, of course, that blind shrimp, water snakes and alligators abound in the Lost Lea - to cite just some of the foolish legends. People can be very gullible. However, there is a thriving family of coypu at the eastern end, as I saw with my own eyes, and the albino beaver introduced last year as a tourist attraction should be well established by the time of your visit.
